This season Japer Conran dispelled the winter fashion cliche; ‘black is the new black’. His A/W11 show presented a collection with a colour palette of chocolate brown, charcoal gray, dusty blue, and pale violets, signaling a definite shift this autumn from standard black to a richer range of dark, muted tones.
The autumnal feel was enhanced by a heavy emphasis on layering. Starting with diaphonous, dresses, then working in heavier leather and fringed fabrics as well as fur coats, some of which were even layered themselves, Jasper Conran promoted the art of piling on the layers as an important trend for next season.
Like many other designers we’ve seen so far at London Fashion Week, the cut of the pieces was reminiscent of the 1960s, with short hemlines, trapeze coats, squared-off pumps and bandeau head scarves. Sixties-style futurism was also a feature, with stunning high-crowned, pointed cloche hats (very chic for the autumn weather).
The penchant for silver was again seen at this show, with lots of sequins and accessories. The collection leaned heavily on geometric lines, referencing the 60s, but also highlighting a modern and updated approach. The coats and jackets were double-breasted with strong, clean seams, either belted or cut at the hips.
Another message for autumn is throw those black tights away! And instead complement your look with tonal coloured tights. Designers seem to be quite unanimous this season; dark is the new black, silver is the new gold, and colour blocking a la 1960s reigns.