It’s already convention that London’s men’s fashion week gets underway with a show by menswear star in the making, Lou Dalton. On Monday, Dalton presented an accomplished collection of signature tailored sportswear, kick starting the emerging trend for Post Punk with her Black Watch tartan trousers, paneled tailoring, use of black rubberised fabrics and monkey boots with brass plate details.
Later that morning, swimwear brand Orlebar Brown brought some much-needed sunshine to the day with their Miami-themed collection.
From the heat of Miami, to suggestions of polar exploration…Topman Design’s collection offered protection from the harshest of elements with fur-trimmed parkas and boiled wool jackets with high military collars suggesting valiant endeavor. But any similarity with military function ended there, as the heat was turned up to vivid colour including major-trend vivid orange and bright reds.
Lee Roach presented a slick collection of minimalist pieces, including leather biker jackets, and extended his colour palette from signature black to include some choice neutrals, whilst keeping to the clean lines he is renowned for.
The MAN show featuring Astrid Andersen, Craig Green and Agi & Sam is probably the most discussed show of the week. Andersen pursued her refined, techno sportswear vision, whilst Craig Green’s complex, monochrome collection roused as much derision from the gutter press as enthusiasm from fashion editors, as he sent models down the runway with their faces obscured by painted wooden fences.
Agi & Sam’s collection was one of the most anticipated collections of the week and they didn’t disappoint, either in terms of spectacle or in having upped their game with a matured collection. Their signature prints were firmly under control and the bodywarmers and layered coats created a sleek, contemporary outline. Menswear designers Patrick Grant and William Green were amongst the models, as were a pair of basset puppies, not the last sighting of dogs this week.
Lulu Kennedy’s Fashion East continues to provide a space for emerging talent and London’s installations are now world-leading. Meadham Kirchoff presented Byron-esque dandies in high-waisted trousers, beaded coats and toreador jackets, all set against a backdrop of a smoldering rubbish dump. Meanwhile, Kit Neale’s Pop Art vinyl onesies were shown in a hyper-real Formica caff, whilst Joseph Turvey had live Dalmations on set, their dottiness having inspired paint splatter polka dot prints and dog illustrations.
Richard Nicoll’s pared back collection extended his signature blues to include the vivid orange that is probably THE seasonal colour trend for AW13. Pieces from this simple, tasteful collection are on many a fashion editor and fashion blogger’s wishlist for next winter.
Hackett ended the first day in the crypt of St Paul’s cathedral, where tuxedos and model Erin O’Connor drew appreciative oohs from the crowd.
Featured image by Eva K Salvi