5 Trends from LC:M that proved to be stayers in Paris and Milan

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London Collections: Men ended a few weeks ago now (admittedly, that’s ages in fashion years) but many of the trends first seen there have held their own throughout the shows in Milan and Paris. Here are 5 of the strongest design themes to emerge in London that are likely to influence what you might be wearing and buying in a year’s time.

Fur

From aviator-style shearling collars to fur scarves and full on all-pelt coats, the latest luxury trend to transfer to menswear is fur, a trend that is visibly continuing apace on the streets here in London. With its bling overtones of 1970s pimp, full-length fur has been avoided by all but rappers and Russian oligarchs living it up in Paris and Milan: until now. For those with ethical concerns, tactile alternatives include faux astrakhans and (by-product) shearling trims. However, the real thing is definitely heading into the menswear mainstream, riding on the established standard of the fur-trimmed parka.

Seen at: Baartmans and Siegel, Sibling, Lou Dalton, Christopher Raeburn, Astrid Andersen, Kenzo, Ami.

Fur1_CRaeburnImage via Sharpened Lead

Bold graphic lines

The runways in London were full of modernist lines, dividing up individual garments like large-scale abstract gallery canvases. At E.Tautz, the label’s now-signature scaled up pattern on overcoats, sweaters and wool biker jackets made a bold graphical statement, as did the solid black lines emphasising the capacious scale of the overcoats. At Casely-Hayford’s runway debut, solid lines cropped up on overcoats and trouser legs. James Long’s super-textured pieces were some of the most painterly of all, with futuristic fabrics looking like built-up oil paint, at least until Raf Simons brought out the real art pieces in the form of his exuberant collaboration with U.S. artist Sterling Ruby. The well-received collaboration featured pieces demarcated with lines, slogans and patched fabrics like carefully composed mixed media works. Meanwhile, over at Kenzo, scenes of wintry North American landscapes were rendered in flat, solid, non-natural colour.

Seen at: E.Tautz, Casely-Hayford, James Long, J.W. Anderson, Agi & Sam, Kenzo, Raf Simons x Sterling Ruby.

GraphicalLines_ETautzImage via Sharpened Lead

Monochrome

In London, the black and white trend was strongest at Agi & Sam where generously proportioned outerwear was given maximum impact through the use of the most oppositional colour contrast of all; made even more dramatic through the use of an all-black cast of dark skinned models, reversing the norm of mostly white faces in fashion imagery. Head to toe black continues to be a newly revered uniform among the fashion crowd, and was much seen on the street and runways across the European shows.

Seen at: Agi & Sam, Topman Design, Matthew Miller, Casely-Hayford, Alexander McQueen, James Long, Saint Laurent.

JoggingPants_Casely_HayfordImage via Sharpened Lead

Tracksuits and luxury joggers

Emerging London designers like Casely-Hayford and Baartmans and Siegel are known for integrating sportswear details like ribbed cuffs and drawstring waists into otherwise more formal tailored pieces but the look has definitely been taken up by the higher-end European designers as with the super-lux versions at Bottega Veneta and the jogger-cum-biker-pants at Dries Van Noten (an established expert in sporty legwear himself). Produced in luxury materials with high-end details and fastenings, the jogging pant becomes more than something to do the corner-shop run in, especially when matched up with a quality overcoat, leather gloves and fine knitwear. The tracksuit influence was also seen in the head-to-toe use of a single colour: as at the likes of Y3 and YMC.

Seen at: Oliver Spencer, Sibling, Bottega Veneta, Dries Van Noten, Casely-Hayford, Baartmans & Siegel, Y3, YMC.

Monochrome_AgiandSamImage via Sharpened Lead

Big scarves/shawls

A fashion editor’s favourite transferred to the runway and back again, the shawl/oversized scarf trend started last winter but is now a fully-fledged thing. Popularised by street style icons like New York Times fashion director Bruce Pask and countless Pitti attendees, an artfully arranged blanket or scaled-up scarf adds an element of tactile chaos to smart tailoring and buttoned-up winter dressing. Take to street style sites for a visual guide to wrapping and folding, or look to India, where the locals are long adept at turning lengths of fabric into personalised garments.

Seen at: Sibling, Paul Smith, Burberry Prorsum, Louis Vuitton, Missoni, E.Tautz.

Shawls_SiblingImage via Sharpened Lead

A couple of emerging trends

While we’re speaking of great accessories, the slouchy bag, probably a drawstring tote or a backpack but not worn as such, being carried instead in the hand like a document case or clutch, is a quirky runway trend that may yet take hold.

Expect to see more of: softly tailored, roomy coats, cut wide (often with a shawl collar and raglan sleeves) in a pale, stroke-able fabric (most likely with a high cashmere quota). Winter AW14 will not be coming cheap.